break

sometimes I think we need a break.

we need to run to a place we feel free

where there are no expectations,

no thoughts

Just time you have for yourself and no one else.

Being with people is good

but time alone is precious.

Silence is golden and the state of mind where you are happy alone,

is a good one.

Because when you happy alone,

your happiness does not rely on anyone.

The ocean is my break from the world.

The world holds me,

the people in it,seem to manipulate my thoughts,

my mind.

As soon as I get in the water,

the chains are broken,

I'm no longer a slave of the things around me,

but I'm a loyal servant to the ocean.

It owns me,

with permission to.

Its the freedom I ask for ,

and how lucky am I to receive it?

Hollow

trying to describe a barrel seems merely impossible.

the feeling you get

when you in.

and never want to leave.

water rushing above your head.

surging from beneath you.

you feel the ocean

you feel the passion

you feel the joy.

You forget.

You  are in absolute bliss.

Nothing matters.

Nothing.

the sight of the water closing you in

the ocean swallowing you.

The endless colours that find a spot in your mind.

After one.

You're hooked,and its never enough.

The pure stoke when you make it,

and the gift that the ocean has given you,cannot be compared to anything.

Because that moment was what you have been waiting for.

and there will never be another like it. 

strength

So many times life catches you by surprise and you don't know what to do

or where you are.

All you know is where you want to be.

Living isn't easy,nothing is easy.

Yet we seem to have an internal strength that comes out when we need it.

A part of us we know exists,yet we don't see often.

Its the part that at that low point its says to you

You can do it

Keep going

You will make it.

And that is what helps us make it through another day.

When we are broken we will heal,

for if something is broken,how can it break more?

it will only heal.

When something is at the bottom,it has nowhere to go,

but up.

When life throws you down,its a challenge,

and if you don't accept it and take the challenge,

No one loses,but you.

When your heart is in pain and it feels like the world is over, that's when its real.

All we have to do is take it,even better,Hit it back.

Look for the good things.

Don't hold the bad,for it harms no one but the holder.

Life isn't easy.

But easy isn't an option.

If it were,everyone would take it,and no ones characters would be moulded.

People with strong hearts

powerful souls and wise minds,

would be empty.

Strength does not come from ease,

it comes form hard times we have no controll over,

and the only option you have?

Be strong.

That shows us who we really are.

I believe people have the potential to achieve anything,

because impossible is a word only a coward will use.

ocean

That feeling when your foot hits the water

and you think to yourself,

its good to be home.

As you paddle out over the now foaming yet once majestic waves,

that the the ocean throws at you,

and you forced to make that first duck-dive,

The cold one.

although that's the one that warms you up the most.

The feeling of sitting at backline

where the ocean is calm and your only worry?

Who is going to get the next wave.

Peacefully time passes as you forget about your earthly problems,

and find happiness,

true happiness.

When you remember nothing but the things you need,

the things you want.

The absolute bliss of being in the ocean.

The Power,

The Beauty,

The Unpredictability,

The Danger,

The Passion.

Want to go up the weskus.

mmm

looks like i'm going up soon.

frothing

Frothing for a surf today,so many options!!!

Got my drivers yesterday.

feels like freedom.

love the feeling of being able to go where you feel

when you want.

the price of petrol?

too much.

good day of surfing with two good friends in good heavy waves.

Loving it.

Ill spend my days

chasing sunlight

Loving life.

surfed this place,4days in a row

last day

6 hours,uncrowded,only the faces of friends

sharing waves

frothing

enjoying.

Living

Check out the rest on 

http://robintaylorphotography.tumblr.com/

Passion? dont argue

Its the reason i rise before the sun does.

its the reason i go to sleep before the night is over.

Its the reason i make it through the day

why i watch,

wait,
  plan,

Go.

Its the reason i get into a wet wetsuit,

when others,

they fear getting out of bed.

Its the reason i'm proud to own only three things

board 

suit 

flippers,

got that,i'm good to go.

why i paddle out on a crowded day

and sit deeper than the rest

the reason is the only thing i don't own,

 yet.

Its the next wave,

and it belongs to me.

A friend of mine is Brilliant behind the lens

Robin Taylor

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Robin-Taylor-Photo/121717167875344

He got a shot of me that he took into a magazine

Surfing one of our local breaks,that under the right conditions

Really delivers

Thanks Buddy

Class- Amaury Lavernhe shows his talent

Keep your head up, keep your heart strong
Keep your mind set, keep your hair long
Keep your head up, keep your heart strong
Keep your mind set in your ways

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTuKcIi9_pc

So stoked

got mentioned on IBA live by Manny V.

Yeeeeew

After a long day of exams,and a short surf.

its time to enter dreamland.

ahhh how i love that place,gives us real life experiences,

but not in real life? make sense?

thought so .

I love the golden colour of the once blue ocean

as the sun slowly creeps behind the horizon,

Allowing night to settle,

and giving the moon a chance to shine.

Goodnight world.

Uncrowded,magical surf in the sunset.

I absolutely love bodyboarding.

there's nothing like it.

nothing can satisfy me,like a good surf.

The feeling of the wave,of nature,under your body compares to nothing else.

The feeling of sitting inside a barrel

the vision

'life is only really seen from inside a barrel'

in those couple of seconds,you forget.

forget about the world

your problems

society

and everything,but your passion,and what you live for.

as friends and a bodyboarding community

we live for the same things.

good waves

good friends

good journeys

and most of all good times and people to share the passion with

 Sometimes we need to take a break,When life gets the most of us,Tries to handle us.

We need to turn to the things that make us happy,Really happy.

The things that are constant and do not change.

The things that don't have potential to be great,for they are already great.

Because everything has the power to be great,But not much is.

Happiness is found in the places we feel most at home,

the places where you can be you.

Everyone has the potential to be happy.

The definition of happy differs,for different people.

Yet it has the same meaning to everyone.

A state where you can be free.

free to be who want to be or who you feel like being. 

Happiness overcomes all other emotions and overcomes pain.

Time and Happiness go hand in hand,as time is constant and happiness is temporary. 

Time brings us happiness by healing.

teaching

curing

leading.

One is concious of fear,pain, hatred,jealousy and happiness.

The only true state of happiness is reached when happiness is constant

and we don't feel aware of the times we are happy,

as the feeling is common in our hearts.

Our soul longs for freedom,

yet cries for security.

Our soul longs for happiness,

yet we know happiness from the absence of itself,

and presence of other emotions.

Our soul longs for  dreams we feel cannot be reached,

but its just that type of attitude that betrays us

and stops us from becoming who we want to be.

Success is merely a state of mind and can be attained,

when you feel satisfied with what you have done.

Life is what you make it.

This earth is a place where we should be free.
Be who we are,where we are.
Do what we love when we want to do it.
Without having to be who others want us to be.
We are who we are.
Let us be.
Who we are is an indication of who we are going to be.
Things will change,but our roots,our foundations wont.
Overcoming obstacles is a part of life and makes us who we are,
and helps us become who we want to be.
'Respect all,but grovel to none'