That feeling when your foot hits the water
and you think to yourself,
its good to be home.
As you paddle out over the now foaming yet once majestic waves,
that the the ocean throws at you,
and you forced to make that first duck-dive,
The cold one.
although that's the one that warms you up the most.
The feeling of sitting at backline
where the ocean is calm and your only worry?
Who is going to get the next wave.
Peacefully time passes as you forget about your earthly problems,
and find happiness,
true happiness.
When you remember nothing but the things you need,
the things you want.
The absolute bliss of being in the ocean.
The Power,
The Beauty,
The Unpredictability,
The Danger,
The Passion.
