break

sometimes I think we need a break.

we need to run to a place we feel free

where there are no expectations,

no thoughts

Just time you have for yourself and no one else.

Being with people is good

but time alone is precious.

Silence is golden and the state of mind where you are happy alone,

is a good one.

Because when you happy alone,

your happiness does not rely on anyone.

The ocean is my break from the world.

The world holds me,

the people in it,seem to manipulate my thoughts,

my mind.

As soon as I get in the water,

the chains are broken,

I'm no longer a slave of the things around me,

but I'm a loyal servant to the ocean.

It owns me,

with permission to.

Its the freedom I ask for ,

and how lucky am I to receive it?

Hollow

trying to describe a barrel seems merely impossible.

the feeling you get

when you in.

and never want to leave.

water rushing above your head.

surging from beneath you.

you feel the ocean

you feel the passion

you feel the joy.

You forget.

You  are in absolute bliss.

Nothing matters.

Nothing.

the sight of the water closing you in

the ocean swallowing you.

The endless colours that find a spot in your mind.

After one.

You're hooked,and its never enough.

The pure stoke when you make it,

and the gift that the ocean has given you,cannot be compared to anything.

Because that moment was what you have been waiting for.

and there will never be another like it. 

strength

So many times life catches you by surprise and you don't know what to do

or where you are.

All you know is where you want to be.

Living isn't easy,nothing is easy.

Yet we seem to have an internal strength that comes out when we need it.

A part of us we know exists,yet we don't see often.

Its the part that at that low point its says to you

You can do it

Keep going

You will make it.

And that is what helps us make it through another day.

When we are broken we will heal,

for if something is broken,how can it break more?

it will only heal.

When something is at the bottom,it has nowhere to go,

but up.

When life throws you down,its a challenge,

and if you don't accept it and take the challenge,

No one loses,but you.

When your heart is in pain and it feels like the world is over, that's when its real.

All we have to do is take it,even better,Hit it back.

Look for the good things.

Don't hold the bad,for it harms no one but the holder.

Life isn't easy.

But easy isn't an option.

If it were,everyone would take it,and no ones characters would be moulded.

People with strong hearts

powerful souls and wise minds,

would be empty.

Strength does not come from ease,

it comes form hard times we have no controll over,

and the only option you have?

Be strong.

That shows us who we really are.

I believe people have the potential to achieve anything,

because impossible is a word only a coward will use.

ocean

That feeling when your foot hits the water

and you think to yourself,

its good to be home.

As you paddle out over the now foaming yet once majestic waves,

that the the ocean throws at you,

and you forced to make that first duck-dive,

The cold one.

although that's the one that warms you up the most.

The feeling of sitting at backline

where the ocean is calm and your only worry?

Who is going to get the next wave.

Peacefully time passes as you forget about your earthly problems,

and find happiness,

true happiness.

When you remember nothing but the things you need,

the things you want.

The absolute bliss of being in the ocean.

The Power,

The Beauty,

The Unpredictability,

The Danger,

The Passion.

Want to go up the weskus.

mmm

looks like i'm going up soon.

frothing

Frothing for a surf today,so many options!!!

Got my drivers yesterday.

feels like freedom.

love the feeling of being able to go where you feel

when you want.

the price of petrol?

too much.

good day of surfing with two good friends in good heavy waves.

Loving it.

Ill spend my days

chasing sunlight